All you need to know about cotton, part 4: five takeaways

You are a master of cotton! Now that you know everything about the difference between conventional industrial and organic agriculture, the current market, the types of seeds, and geographic peculiarities, it is time to underline the most important takeaways and reject some common misconceptions about cotton growing in the last chapter of our series.

Takeaway nr. 1: cotton is not a thirsty crop

Have you ever heard that cotton is a thirsty crop? That is not entirely true. There are many shared misconceptions about growing cotton, especially regarding water use. Modern and conventional farming practices abound with problems, but the real impact of growing cotton depends on various other factors, such as geography and seed and soil type. 

The Aral Sea example is often cited: it is believed that this vast lake in Central Asia was drained to irrigate cotton fields. Unfortunately, this was just a classic case of mismanagement, not an indication that cotton is a thirsty crop. 

The fake news that cotton is a high-water consumer was shared by a company that developed a waterless fabric-printing technology that works only on polyester. To promote its innovation, it launched a blog that prioritized water preservation in the sustainable transition and therefore claimed that synthetics were more eco-friendly than water-wasting natural fibers, such as cotton. This explains why, if you search online for how much water it takes to produce a pair of jeans, you will often find a number like 10,000 liters. 

Cotton is a drought-resistant crop that thrives in hot, dry climates, even during periods of water stress. In such situations, leaf growth decreases to prioritize flowers and, eventually, fibers, which receive the available water. According to an analysis conducted by Cotton Inc. in 2020, cotton accounted for between 1% and 6% of the total water used for agriculture worldwide. Farming practices, cotton variety, the origin of water, irrigation technology, geography, soil health, and input use determine how much water is needed and, more importantly, wasted to irrigate crops. 

Takeaway nr. 2: cotton does not require too many pesticides 

A similar situation occurs for pesticides, including herbicides, insecticides, and fungicides. After sharing the news that natural fibers waste a lot of water, the company working on synthetics warned consumers of the significant amount of pesticides required by cotton. 

Cotton is often cited as one of the largest consumers of agricultural pesticides, but the figures typically cited are outdated and incomplete. It is true that cotton is vulnerable to 480 types of pests, but there are many regional differences in pesticide use, even though use has generally declined since the peak of the ‘80s. Additionally, not all pesticides are harmful; some are even necessary and beneficial for both people and the environment. They just need to be used correctly. Of course, there is always room for improvement, but it is essential to remember that practices and technologies continually evolve and become increasingly efficient. 

Takeaway nr. 3: regenerative practices may surpass organic 

Despite all the complications, the future of cotton seems promising. Consumers, brands, and farmers are asking for reductions in its environmental and social impacts and more transparency across its value chain, so regenerative cotton is likely to increase its market share and, eventually, overtake other types of sustainable cotton. 

Regenerative practices are flexible and farmer-friendly. It focuses on outcomes, aiming to restore natural ecosystems. In contrast, organic agriculture focuses on processes, defining strict rules for growing crops in an environmentally and socially friendly way. Moreover, organic agriculture eliminates toxic substances and GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms) but does not necessarily avoid other potentially harmful practices, such as tillage, and has a sometimes overly complicated certification process. Organic and regenerative are, however, not rivals, and they may also be complementary. 

It is necessary to ensure that regenerative agriculture does not become the next greenwashing gimmick, but this should not become a barrier to entry, as with organic. Every positive change should be encouraged.

Takeaway nr. 4: not all types of cotton are the same

As seen in our third chapter, the difference starts with the cotton seed. Beyond different growing practices, much work is being done to expand the diversity of cotton types, which are also conducive to regenerative agriculture. In contrast, GMOs, which have taken over the market, use the same narrow genetic base to create their products and focus more on the trait to insert into the genome.

Takeaway nr. 5: cotton needs more transparency

Last but not least, cotton needs more transparency. However, the typical characteristics of the cotton industry make it difficult to ensure. For instance, many suppliers are smallholders who mix their cotton at the gin, making it impossible to trace the raw materials back to the farm and to know how they were grown. This is a real issue, as the industry works to protect labor rights and eliminate hazardous chemicals and off-target contamination, and consumers, brands, and retailers demand greater traceability.

The textile industry should commit to adopting a more direct and transparent approach, starting from the farm, to actively support the creation of a more environmentally and socially responsible cotton supply chain. Our Blue Seed cotton is an example of a project designed to trace every step of the supply chain. Certifications can be used to verify cotton claims, but they are not always the right solution since there has been evidence of fraud and a lack of oversight.