What makes denim premium: the markers of true quality

In the world of fashion, few fabrics possess the enduring appeal and cultural significance of denim. However, not all denim is the same. High-quality denim distinguishes itself through superior materials, expert craftsmanship, and a commitment to sustainability. As consumer awareness increases, the denim industry is evolving, combining traditional excellence with innovative practices to meet modern environmental and ethical standards. This article examines what defines premium denim today—from raw fibers to final stitches—and explains why investing in quality denim is beneficial for both your wardrobe and the world.

High-quality denim fabric

The premium denim industry traditionally relies on three core elements: high-quality fabrics, authentic washes, and superior performance. In recent years, however, there has been an increasing focus on environmental and social factors due to the significant impact of the denim industry on our planet.

When discussing what makes denim premium, we must start with the raw materials. In the denim industry, everything begins with cotton, which should be both durable and have a superior hand feel. Additionally, we cannot overlook the growing interest in preferred fibers, such as organic and regenerative cotton, as well as recycled materials, all of which come with added environmental and social benefits.

High quality is a consistent theme throughout all denim manufacturing processes, which should also aim to minimize their carbon footprint. At Candiani, we believe that innovation and sustainability must go hand in hand. Technological advancements should not harm people or the planet; instead, they should enhance the lives of everyone involved. This is why we are committed to researching and developing new solutions to save resources, reduce CO2 emissions, and ensure the rights of everyone in the supply chain are respected, all while improving the aesthetics and performance of our products to meet the demands of brands and designers.

From a consumer perspective, high-quality denim represents an investment that enriches your wardrobe and supports sustainable fashion. Premium denim quality ensures that garments are durable and long-lasting. Furthermore, denim is unique in that it improves in beauty as it ages, with natural fading creating unique effects and adding authentic character. Lastly, high-quality denim encourages us to extend its life through practices such as repairing, upcycling, donating, and recycling, which align with the core principles of a circular economy.

Craftsmanship and stitching

In the realm of high-quality denim, craftsmanship sets apart both fabric manufacturing and the sewing of finished garments. This dedication to detail goes beyond mere assembly; every fiber and every stitch tells a story of durability and enduring style.

The stitching, often overlooked, is a cornerstone of this artistry. In contrast to mass-produced denim, which prioritizes speed and cost, premium jeans focus on meticulous stitching techniques that enhance durability and contribute significantly to the garment’s character, making them cherished items that last rather than disposable commodities.

One hallmark of quality is the strategic use of different stitch types. Robust chain stitching, commonly found on the outseam and waistband, provides flexibility and creates the coveted “roping” effect over time. Lock stitching, with its secure, interlocked structure, reinforces areas prone to stress, such as belt loops and pocket openings, often further strengthened with bar tacks—dense clusters of stitches that act as miniature anchors. The choice of thread is also crucial, as it must withstand the rigors of daily wear and multiple washes.

Beyond structural integrity, stitching enhances aesthetic appeal. Contrasting thread colors can accentuate design lines and pocket details, becoming a signature of a particular brand. The precision and evenness of stitch lines showcase the artisan’s skill. While mass-produced denim may have imperfections, high-quality pieces display clean, straight, and consistent stitching as a testament to the maker’s expertise.

Fit and design details

Unlike fast fashion, which relies on trend-driven designs that quickly go out of style to support a business model focused on low prices and high volumes, premium denim emphasizes different characteristics. It often prioritizes timeless silhouettes and carefully considered details that flatter the wearer and withstand fleeting trends, resulting in durable products that retain their appealing features over time. There are also significant differences among the various types of denim fabrics.

Premium stretch denim not only maintains its aesthetic and soft hand feel but also preserves its elastic performance and snug fit over time without deforming or stretching, even after years of use and washing. In contrast, while premium rigid denim may feel less comfortable and stiffer initially, it can prove to be more durable over time, as cotton fibers are generally stronger than elastic materials. Rigid denim can also adapt to the wearer’s body shape, achieving a perfect fit with continued use.

Then, there’s selvedge denim. Selvedge denim is becoming increasingly rare in the industry because it is woven on traditional shuttle looms. These looms have largely been replaced by more efficient full-width looms due to the surge in demand for jeans during economic booms. While shuttle looms are slower and less precise, they create the distinctive edge that many denim enthusiasts cherish. Selvedge denim can come in a wide variety of colors and constructions, but it typically features a white band accented by colored stitching. This type of denim perfectly embodies the true legacy of the fabric.

That’s why the journey to finding a great pair of jeans begins with understanding the nuances of fits and fabrics. This goes beyond simple waist and inseam measurements. High-quality denim takes into account factors such as rise (high, mid, low), leg cut (slim, straight, relaxed, tapered, bootcut), and the shape of the seat and thigh. Each of these elements is meticulously engineered to achieve specific aesthetics and levels of comfort. A well-designed fit allows for ease of movement without sacrificing shape, often accomplished through carefully drafted patterns and thoughtful considerations of how the denim will drape and mold to the body over time.

High-quality denim design is often characterized by subtle sophistication. Instead of excessive embellishments, the focus is on refined details. This can include strategically placed pockets that are both functional and visually balanced, unique selvedge detailing on the outseam reflecting the fabric’s origin and construction, and carefully chosen hardware like sturdy buttons and rivets that enhance both durability and aesthetics.

Additionally, washing and finishing processes play a crucial role in the overall design. Premium denim often undergoes specialized washing techniques to achieve unique textures, fades, and levels of softness. These processes are carefully controlled to enhance the character of the denim without compromising the strength and quality of its fibers and, thus, its integrity.

Why does premium denim cost more?

Alberto Candiani recently explained in a podcast that the term “premium” originates from “premium price,” referring to the higher amount consumers are willing to pay for high-quality products. This doesn’t necessarily imply luxury; rather, it indicates that a product is of superior quality compared to its competitors.

However, in recent years, the true value of premium products in the fashion industry has diminished in favor of lower prices and faster business models. These models encourage consumers to keep up with rapidly changing trends and dispose of their clothing quickly. Consequently, premium is often now equated with luxury, and the difference in how to identify luxury jeans versus premium denim is becoming more subtle.

Italian textile manufacturing has a rich tradition of producing high-quality fabrics. Unfortunately, this excellence is increasingly confined to luxury items, a segment currently facing significant challenges. The decline of made-in-Italy production has led to reduced volumes. Being limited to the luxury market, which is inherently exclusive, rare, and inaccessible to many, restricts the scalability that could be achieved in the premium market.