A comprehensive guide to the denim manufacturing process

Denim, a timeless fabric, has been a staple in wardrobes for centuries. Its durability, versatility, and iconic blue hue have made it a fashion classic. But what exactly goes into the creation of this versatile material? Let’s delve into the comprehensive denim manufacturing process.

Stages of denim manufacturing

The process of manufacturing denim is a complex journey that combines traditional techniques with modern innovations. From selecting the fibers to adding the final finishing touches, each step contributes to the unique character and durability of denim. Understanding this process gives a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship behind this iconic fabric.

The first stage is fiber selection and preparation. Denim begins with cotton, a natural fiber that is often blended with other materials like elastane, rayon, or linen to enhance properties such as stretchiness or softness, although traditional denim is made 100% from cotton. High-quality, strong, and durable cotton varieties are crucial for the success of the production process, as denim fabrics cannot exist without cotton. The ginning process separates the cotton fibers from the seeds and other impurities. It is performed before the raw materials arrive at the denim mills.

The fibers are then spun into yarn in the spinning department to form the foundation of denim fabrics. The type of yarn and its twist determine the fabric’s texture and strength. The next process is warping, which involves transferring yarns from multiple cones onto one beam. The yarns designated to become warp, which is usually white, are sent directly to the weaving department, while the weft is usually dyed with indigo, giving denim the characteristic blue color. In addition to indigo, denim can be dyed in various shades, such as black. The dyeing process includes sizing to set the color and strengthen the yarns. Ecru denim also goes through the sizing stage without being colored.

After dyeing, the beams are transferred to the weaving department, where warp threads are interlaced with weft threads on a loom to create the denim fabric. The specific weave pattern determines the fabric’s distinctive diagonal lines.

The last stage in denim manufacturing is finishing, which stabilizes the fabrics to prevent shrinkage and enhances their aesthetic, hand feel, and performance. After this process, the denim fabrics undergo quality checks to ensure they meet standards and are ready to be shipped to make jeans and other garments.

From manufacturing to sewing

Patterns are designed based on the desired garment style and size. The denim fabric is then cut according to these patterns, and the cut pieces are sewn together to create the final garment, such as jeans, jackets, or skirts.

Denim is traditionally worn raw, which means it goes almost straight from the loom to the wearer. However, nowadays, it is often washed in industrial laundries to achieve different effects, such as distressing, fading, or softening. Other treatments, such as laser technology, can be applied to create unique textures and finishes. This stage distinguishes denim from most other fabrics, making its manufacturing process unique and opening a world of possibilities for enhancing its aesthetic and performance.

Finally, hardware, such as rivets, buttons, and zippers, is added to complete the garment. Other decorative elements, such as embroideries and appliques, can be used for added flair.

Technologies used in denim production

We have just seen that the denim manufacturing process is complex and involves various technologies for transforming raw cotton into the fabric we know and love. That’s why specific technologies are used in modern denim production, mainly during the washing and finishing processes, which are distinctive to denim manufacturing and contribute to its beauty and appeal, as they distinguish the aesthetic of a finished garment from its initial fabric.

Spinning-wise, there are two methods for making denim: ring or open-end spinning. Ring spinning gives denim its most authentic, premium look, creating an uneven texture and a softer, stronger, higher-quality yarn. Open-end spinning makes the production process faster and less expensive as it requires fewer steps.

The weaving process and resulting denim fabrics can vary based on the type of loom used. Shuttle looms, which are the oldest and most traditional type, use a shuttle, usually made of wood, to carry the weft yarn back and forth, producing selvedge denim with a characteristic edge. This type of denim is favored by many enthusiasts and is known for its white band and colored stitching.

Although shuttle looms have historically been used in textile production, they were largely replaced by full-width looms in the 1960s, when demand for jeans increased. Full-width looms are faster and more efficient, allowing for the production of larger quantities of fabric.

Finally, denim garments undergo innovative washing and finishing processes in industrial laundries that utilize advanced technologies such as ozone and lasers. Ozone is employed to bleach denim, minimizing water and chemical usage. Meanwhile, laser machines are used to replicate denim aging and wear, replacing the manual scratching process, which can be hazardous if proper precautions are not taken.

Candiani’s manufacturing process

Due to its unique manufacturing process, denim undergoes a transformation akin to a caterpillar becoming a butterfly. High-quality denim has the power to bring out the most beautiful features. Throughout the years, we at Candiani have embraced, developed, and patented a range of technologies to minimize the environmental impact of our denim manufacturing process, maximize efficiency, and enhance the premium look, performance, and feel of our fabrics.

Our manufacturing process involves incorporating our core values into our denim fabrics:

• Made in Italy, as we are located in Robecchetto con Induno, and our success is built on the expertise of our people and the ancient textile tradition of our area.
• Innovation, as we constantly seek new solutions to enhance the aesthetics of our fabrics and to reduce the environmental and social impact of our products and manufacturing processes.
• Sustainability, as we believe that innovation is real only when sustainable, complying not only with the strict regulations of the nature reserve we are located in, but also with additional voluntary standards.

Our fibers

We want to monitor and stay informed about everything that occurs in our supply chain. That’s why we collaborated with Gowan Seed Company to develop our exclusive Blue Seed cotton. Blue Seed cotton is a non-GMO hybrid variety that combines the best characteristics of two worlds: the high quality of extra-long staple cotton and the strength of Upland cotton. Additionally, it is more resistant in the field, as it requires less water and fewer chemicals to grow.

We incorporate recycled cotton yarns into our manufacturing process, sourced from post-industrial, pre-consumer, or post-consumer textile waste. Although it’s feasible to produce denim fabrics using 100% post-industrial and pre-consumer materials, we use our Blue Seed cotton to offset the limitations of post-consumer recycled content.

Finally, we have been pioneers in the denim industry in supporting the spread of regenerative cotton, aimed at enhancing soil health, restoring the planet’s natural functions, and rebalancing ecosystems. We indeed believe that regenerative farming techniques can be scalable, as they focus on results rather than applying the same processes worldwide and consider the characteristics of different geographical areas.

Our processes

Some of our other most notable advancements pertain to the dyeing process and aim to reduce water, energy, and chemical consumption, replace harmful and polluting materials, and improve the appearance of our colors.

Indigo Juice® is a technology designed to create a faded look while keeping the dye on the surface of the yarn, thus reducing the amount of water, energy, and chemicals needed in the laundry process to achieve vintage aesthetics.

N-Denim is a nitrogen-based technology that prevents fading by delaying the oxidation process and allowing the pigment to penetrate deeper into the yarn. This results in a wide range of intense, unconventional colors that fade more gradually than those produced by traditional dyeing methods.

Kitotex® is our patented sizing technology that replaces plastic-based polymer PVA with bio-based polymer chitosan. Chitosan comes from renewable sources and is biodegradable and non-toxic. Additionally, it aids wastewater treatment and inhibits bacterial growth and reproduction. Finally, Kitotex® enhances color saturation.

Sound Dye helps to conserve water during the dyeing process by using ultrasound to rinse the yarns. This process creates microbubbles in the water, which implode quickly and generate powerful shock waves that remove excess indigo. Compared to traditional techniques, we can save approximately 2 liters of water (about 30%) per linear meter of denim.

We also take pride in preserving our denim heritage alongside our latest innovations. We are the only mill that still produces denim close to Genoa, where it originated, and we are located at the heart of an area with a centuries-long textile legacy. This commitment is well represented by our selvedge denim fabrics, which are woven with vintage shuttle looms. However, we always strive to update our most traditional products with new materials, such as regenerative and organic cotton, and to utilize progressive technologies, such as Kitotex®, in their manufacturing process.