The premium denim industry emerged in the 1980s when jeans transitioned from being a commodity to becoming a fashionable and luxurious clothing item. However, over the years, it has evolved significantly, embracing a wide range of values and characteristics that were not considered essential 40 years ago. This is why premium denim fabric now blends distinctive aesthetics with sustainable innovation.
Characteristics of premium denim
The premium denim industry emerged in the 1980s as more fashion designers incorporated denim into their collections. Well-known brands such as Calvin Klein, Jordache, Gloria Vanderbilt, and Armani were among the first to introduce designer jeans, i.e., jeans with distinctive features that make the brand immediately recognizable. Calvin Klein, in particular, showcased denim in a fashion show for the first time in 1976.
The development of stretch denim played a significant role in this evolution, with Candiani’s new stretch fabrics being pivotal in establishing the premium denim industry in Los Angeles, which was leading the sector. Adriano Goldschmied, often regarded as the father of premium denim, contributed to the popularity of a new fit, the skinny jean, in the ’80s. Goldschmied believed that premium denim brands transformed jeans from a commodity into a luxury and stylish garment.
Premium denim fabrics have various characteristics based on their qualities. For example, selvedge denim is considered premium because it is made with traditional shuttle looms, giving it a more authentic and heritage aesthetic. In the 2010s, there was a resurgence of raw, unwashed selvedge denim, which had been considered uncomfortable for many decades after introducing softer qualities. Premium stretch denim also has a distinctive aesthetic. Still, it also offers improved performance, such as the ability to regain its original shape after being worn and washed quickly and to maintain its shape even after multiple wears.
However, there are some features that are common to all types of premium denim fabrics, such as the quality of the cotton used. Typically, premium denim is made with high-quality, soft, yet strong and durable cotton qualities. Today, this usually corresponds to preferred fibers such as organic and regenerative cotton. Moreover, it is crafted with more attention to detail and researched techniques, ensuring durability alongside premium aesthetic and flattering fits.
The term premium is frequently misused in the denim industry nowadays. We have become accustomed to purchasing jeans for just a few euros and often fail to appreciate the actual value of premium products (and their resulting premium prices). Behind premium denim fabric lies a commitment to R&D, innovation, expertise, craftsmanship, and sustainability, blending with the desire to create aesthetically appealing products. Therefore, we believe it is crucial to communicate to consumers what sets premium denim apart effectively.
Production techniques for premium denim
Premium denim fabric has a distinct and refined aesthetic that defines the style of the brands using it to make their jeans. Special finishing techniques help achieve this refined look. Premium denim also performs better than conventional denim, lasting longer and feeling better to the touch. Since their inception, premium jeans have been the exact combination of high-quality denim fabrics, authentic washes, and superior performance.
The concept of premium denim has evolved significantly. Today, sustainability, a factor that was not even on the radar when premium denim emerged in the 1980s, is a key element in defining denim’s premium status. Consumers, and consequently brands, are increasingly demanding eco-friendly products with a reduced environmental and social impact. This shift has led to the integration of sustainable technologies with expert craftsmanship and superior materials, marking a new era in denim production.
It’s not just about meeting a brand’s style requirements for denim producers. It’s about staying ahead of the curve by investing in research and development (R&D) and innovation. This proactive approach is crucial in continuously improving premium denim. We firmly believe that sustainable innovation is the way forward, with new cutting-edge technologies in the manufacturing process designed to minimize their impact on our planet.
Innovation can also happen at a product level. Due to the enormous amount of textile waste that ends up in landfills or is incinerated, we are focusing on the end-of-life of products by developing denim recycling programs and biodegradable and compostable fabrics. Two leading examples are our Post-Consumer Recycled (PCR) denim, which contains recycled yarns from old, damaged jeans, and COREVA™, the first stretch denim fabric designed to compost at the end of its life.
Our micro-factory, Candiani Custom in Milan, serves as a model for combining best practices in denim production to create environmentally friendly jeans. We only produce custom-made jeans when they are ordered, so we avoid overproduction and reduce waste. Clients have the option to design their own jeans, starting from the fabric of their choice. All fabrics are manufactured at the nearby Candiani Denim mill, located just 40 km from the micro-factory.
Additionally, the technologies, machines, and materials used to create the finished jeans are sourced from ten Italian partners within a 238 km radius, making our Candiani Custom supply chain the shortest in the denim industry. This results in a lower carbon footprint and ensures traceability.
Why choose premium denim?
As discussed in the preceding paragraphs, premium denim offers a unique combination of style, comfort, and durability. The exceptional cotton quality, cutting-edge technologies, meticulous construction, attention to detail, and perfect fit distinguish premium jeans from mass-produced alternatives.
Premium denim clothing is built to last, and investing in a pair enhances your wardrobe and supports sustainable practices and ethical production, which these brands often prioritize. Unlike fast-fashion items designed to last just one season and quickly replaced by new trends, durability is the cornerstone of a sustainable, circular, and thus premium business model.
Considering that denim is the only fabric that actually increases in value over time, the decision to invest in a premium jean becomes even more significant. The enduring appeal of denim, its natural fading over time, and the unique character it gains from the wearer’s habits and usage, especially in the case of raw denim, which has not undergone industrial washing to remove indigo, all contribute to the long-term value of premium denim, instilling confidence in the investment.
Nowadays, we are accustomed to purchasing jeans and other garments for just a few euros and not treating them with the necessary care. When we invest in a premium product, we are more motivated to make it last as long as possible and to consider repairing, upcycling, donating, and recycling it, following the basic principles of sustainable fashion.
Moreover, it’s crucial to consider that what we wear is in direct contact with our skin, and it can be detrimental to our health if it contains harmful substances. The innovative techniques and superior materials used in premium denim production ensure that we can avoid these harmful substances, providing a sense of security and care for our well-being.
Lastly, low prices indicate not only low-quality materials and technologies but also that someone along the value chain is suffering, whether it’s people, the environment, or both. Someone always pays the price that consumers don’t pay. Suppose a product is produced in a country with strict work and environmental standards. In that case, we know that workers receive a decent salary and that no harmful substances are released into the environment.
