ReSolve: stretch performance redefined

At Candiani, our passion for stretch denim runs deep! This iconic fabric became one of our hallmarks in the vibrant 1980s, a time when the burgeoning Los Angeles premium denim scene embraced our stretch denim as its go-to choice, as it seamlessly combined exceptional elasticity with authentic style, setting the standard for quality. As we’ve evolved, so has our understanding of the environmental impact of denim production. Today, we’re reimagining stretch denim through innovative, sustainable practices while still preserving its premium essence.

The problem with synthetic fibers

The first fully man-made fiber, nylon, was officially launched on October 27, 1938. By 1949, nylon and a growing range of synthetic fibers—fibers created through chemical synthesis—had come to dominate the market. According to Textile Exchange, synthetic fibers comprised 64% of the global fiber market in 2021.

Synthetic fibers quickly became popular among manufacturers and consumers due to their lower cost compared to natural materials, as well as their flexibility and versatility. They can be used in a wide variety of clothing and technical gear, providing specific performance features. For example, synthetic fibers can be engineered to be water- or flame-resistant, absorb liquids, protect against UV rays, and are commonly found in sportswear, safety gear, and medical textiles.

Elastane, a lightweight synthetic fiber derived from petroleum, was invented in the late 1950s to give clothing elastic properties. It is used in a wide range of apparel, including denim, allowing for form-fitting and flexible designs. The introduction of stretch denim in the late 1970s was made possible by elastane.

While elastane production requires significant energy and chemicals, its primary environmental concern is that it is not biodegradable. Fabrics containing elastane do not break down naturally, remaining in the environment for centuries. Additionally, they are difficult to recycle, often ending up in landfills where they accumulate over time.

Petroleum-based fibers also release pollutant microfibers through wear and tear and washing. A report from the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) in 2020 indicated that around 9% of the microplastics found in the oceans each year come from microfibers shed by synthetic textiles. UNEP also reported that approximately 60% of all clothing is made from synthetic materials.

About stretch denim

Until the late 1970s, all jeans were essentially variations of the original riveted men’s fit: made from raw 100% cotton fabric, with a straight fit, five pockets, and a medium to high waist. Originally designed as durable workwear, the heavy fabric often felt stiff and rough against the skin as jeans evolved into casual attire.

Although elastane was invented in the late 1950s, it wasn’t introduced into the denim industry until two decades later. By then, the role of jeans in society had shifted, and designers recognized the need for diverse styles.

Candiani was one of the first denim manufacturers in the world to embrace stretch denim. We combined the new elastic properties with the authentic aesthetics of traditional denim fabrics, launching high-quality stretch denim that laid the groundwork for the emerging premium denim industry in Los Angeles.

The invention of stretch denim and the subsequent rise of premium denim significantly changed public perception of this fabric, elevating its status. Adriano Goldschmied, often referred to as the father of premium denim, described how this new category transformed the classic role of jeans from a mere commodity to a symbol of style and luxury.

Benefits for consumers

Elastane provides jeans with several benefits:

• Stretch jeans can be skinnier and more flattering, enhancing body shape and allowing for more feminine designs
• Stretch denim is more comfortable than rigid denim, offering greater freedom of movement and a softer feel against the skin
• Stretch denim retains its shape over time and easily regains its form after use or washing
• Stretch denim is versatile, enabling the creation of a wide range of fits to accommodate different body types

Stretch denim falls within the broader category of performance denim, which involves blending cotton with other fibers to improve comfort and protection. Performance denim is ideal for an active lifestyle, whether you’re enjoying a leisurely walk in the woods with your dog or navigating the busy streets of Milan on a bike.

How ReSolve works

According to Smithsonian Magazine, recent research indicates that a single pair of jeans can shed, on average, 56,000 microfibers during washing. If these jeans are made with conventional synthetic stretch yarns, they contribute to the release of microfibers and microplastics. Over the past few years, we have been actively working on developing alternatives to reduce the environmental impact of stretch denim and the overall denim manufacturing process.

The Re Family was launched in 2018 and expanded in the following years. It comprises three denim fabrics. ReGen avoids the use of virgin materials and blends post-industrial recycled cotton and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™, made with leftover materials such as cotton and wood. ReLast applies the concept behind ReGen to stretch denim and contains an exclusive pre-consumer recycled elastomer derived from leftovers of the elastane manufacturing process.

The third Re fabric, ReSolve, was launched in 2020 with a commitment to find solutions to materials that have reached their end-of-life and have to be discarded. ReSolve is a high-performance stretch denim that degrades with no negative impacts on the environment at the end of life thanks to an innovative custom-developed stretch yarn that releases no harmful substances. Additionally, this family is sized with a 100% biodegradable, non-toxic, and microplastic-free vegetal compound. The ReSolve technology was awarded the Environmental Compatibility certification by the Hohenstein Institute, which has been testing, certifying, and researching textiles for over 75 years. It is a founder and a leading provider of the OEKO-TEX® portfolio of services.

The entire Re Family is dedicated to the concept of a circular economy, focusing on two main approaches. First, we emphasize recycling as a means to minimize waste and give new life to materials that would otherwise end up in landfills or incinerators. Second, we address the end-of-life management of products that can no longer be reused or recycled. To lessen the environmental impact of these products, we strive to improve the use of raw materials that have a neutral or positive effect on the environment.

Why preferred cotton matters: a sustainable solution

In our ongoing quest to find eco-friendly alternatives to conventional denim manufacturing, we blend low-impact stretch yarns with preferred cotton fibers. Preferred cotton offers environmental and/or social benefits compared to traditional options. Examples include organic, regenerative, and recycled fibers, as well as Better Cotton.

Organic cotton is cultivated in harmony with nature, improving soil health and avoiding harmful substances. It is also GMO-free, and human rights are upheld throughout its supply chain. Organic cotton’s standards are consistent worldwide and focus more on processes than on specific outcomes.

Regenerative cotton also works with nature but is defined by its outcomes rather than processes. This type of agriculture lacks a universal definition, as it is tailored to each specific context and location. Regenerative practices tend to be more farmer-friendly than organic methods, as their standards vary globally and adapt to farmers’ circumstances. The main goals of regenerative agriculture are to restore soil health and biodiversity, commonly employing techniques such as reduced or no tillage, cover crops, crop rotation, and minimizing or eliminating chemical additives.

Recycled cotton helps reduce waste and the use of new raw materials, promoting circular fashion by optimizing the utilization of original resources. Recycling can occur at the post-industrial, pre-consumer, or post-consumer levels, depending on whether it involves leftover production materials, deadstock, or old garments that have been purchased.

Better Cotton is the leading global initiative for sustainable cotton. Their mission is to support communities dependent on cotton while protecting and restoring the environment. We were the first denim producer to incorporate Better Cotton fibers in 2011.